Kinematics and Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves

The course deals with deterministic description of surface gravity waves. The course covers:Transient waves; Cauchy-Poisson problem. Depth- and current-refraction of waves. Waves plus current. Ship waves. Analogy with geometrical optics. Conservation of wave action. Wave induced currents. Nonlinear waves in deep and shallow water. Nonlinear properties of waves with small amplitude. Nonlinear wave theories. Breaking waves.

To have knowledge of the theoretical basis for and good physical understanding of ocean surface waves which is covered by the topics described in the academic content. To have skills and general competence to be able to apply this knowledge and understanding within own research work, and to master the concepts and terminology which are used in the description of ocean surface waves.

Lectures and compulsory exercises. To pass the course a score of at least 70 percent is required.